The Great Choice that is the French Market

Fruit Stand at Marché Jeanne d'Arc

Spiky Fig at Jeanne d'Arc, called a "Figue de Barbarie".

Butchers at Marché Victor Hugo.

Stingray and other rare sea critters at Marché Victor Hugo.

Give me liberty, give me peace. And then give me the French market.

There is a certain joy that comes with endless abundance and the ability to choose. This is found immediately in the crowded bustle of a French market.

In France there are markets that will make your jaw drop. You have never seen a spiky fig. Yet there it is in front of you. You have seldom seen stingray, yet there they lie staring back at you on ice. The world is your oyster at a French market. And yes, if you like to take things literally, fear not because there will be oysters. You will find wonder and you will find amazement. And you will believe in the good life.

Sunday markets have done this for me. I normally dread Sundays in France. Most stores close and streets are left deserted. For the French Sunday is a day of leisure; they usually head out of town to enjoy the country or gather with friends and family for a meal. But for newcomers who lack a social network, Sunday can be bland and lonely. The Sunday market is a zesty adventure potent enough to zap such thoughts away and get you looking forward to a week full of good eats.

Today I visited two of Toulouse’s regular Sunday markets, the meat, cheese and fish market at Place Victor Hugo and the vegetable market at Jeanne d’Arc. Both take the posh American love-affair with “Whole Food’s” to another level : fresher quality, personal attention, free tasters and lower prices.

For an American, going to the market here is like stepping into another world. There are no plastic wrappings and no pre-packaged products. There are, however, a staggering multitude of choices. The butchers at Victor Hugo illustrate this difference.

Customers are greeted by mountains of ruby-red cuts of meat, long rolls of uncut sausages, piles of salami and an army of hanging dried meats. A team of crispy-clean butchers help sort out these choices, cut meats and give preparation advice. I’m not a red-meat lover, but the meat here is presented so well that I am thinking of giving sausage a second chance.

There is a similar variety at the roughly 50 produce stands at the daily Jeanne d’Arc market. Here you get to explore free of charge. Want a taste? A vendor will hand you an entire fruit to bite into. Want a whole bagful? The prices are surprisingly low. I ventured forth and tried a spiky looking fruit that turned out to be a fig. I added this to my more common selection of fruit and vegetables and ended up with an entire basketful of goodies that cost under 12 euro. This price bought me a cornucopia of fresh produce: bananas, apples, plums, nectarines, figs, a melon, onions, lettuce, cucumbers and potatoes. And of course, a few hours worth of gastronomic adventures. Now that is something to look forward to!